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DHAULAGIRI EXPEDITION |
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Dhaulagiri (8167m.) was
first climbed by the Swiss in 1960. Its
name is derived from Sanskrit "dhavala
means" means "White" and giri is
"Mountain" The mountain was sighted by
British surveyors in India in the early
1800s and was mapped by one of the
secret Indian surveyors, the pundits, in
1873, but the region remained largely
unknown until a Swiss aerial survey in
1949.
The French Annapurna expedition in 1950
had permission to climb either Annapurna
or Dhaulagiri but decided on Annapurna
after a reconnaissance of Dhaulagiri. A
Swiss party failed in 1953 as did an
Argentine group one year later.
After four more expeditions had failed,
eight members of a Swiss expedition
reached the summit in 1960. The climb
followed a circuitous route around the
mountain from Tukuche, over Dhampus pass
as French Col, to approach the summit
from the North-East Col. The expedition
was supplied by a Swiss Pilatus Porter
aircraft, the "Yeti" which landed on the
North-East Col at 5977m. Near the end of
the expedition the plane crashed near
Dhampus pass and the pilots, including
the famous Emil Wick, walked down the
mountain to Tukuche.
Tragedy struck in 1969 when an avalanche
killed seven members of a US expedition
on the East Dhaulagiri Glacier. The peak
was climbed by the Japanese in 1970s,
the Americans in 1973 and the Italians
in 1976. Captain Emil Wick airdropped
supplies to the US expedition from a
Pilatus Porter aircrafts. Among the
delicacies he dropped were two bottles
of wine and a live chicken. The Sherpas
would not allow the chicken to be killed
on the mountain, so it became the
expedition pet. It was carried,
snow-blind and crippled with frostbitten
feet, to Marpha, where it finally ended
up in the cooking pot. |
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Itinerary of Dhaulagiri Expedition in
Detail |
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Days 01 :
Arrival Kathmandu & transfer to hotel |
Days 02 - 03 :
Preparing Expedition & Briefing |
Days 04 :
Drive by Bus to Beni & Galeshor Camp |
Days 05 :
Galeshor – Tato Pani |
Days 06 :
Tatopani – Ghasa |
Days 07 :
Ghasa - Larjung |
Days 08 :
Larjung – Marpha
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Days 09 :
Marpha – Yak Khark
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Days 10 :
Yak Khark – Dhaulagiri Base Camp
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Days 11 - 37 :
Climbing Period of Dhaulagiri 8167m. |
Days 38 :
Prepared for coming back |
Days 39 :
Dhaulagiri Base camp – Yak Khark |
Days 40 :
Yak Khark – Jomsom |
Days 41 :
Jomsom – Pokhara |
Days 42 :
Pokhara – Kathmandu |
Days 43 - 44 :
Kathmandu |
Days 45 :
Final Departure. |
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