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The Mt. Pumori Base
camp can be reached Kathmandu – Lukla
flight and trekking via Namche Bazaar,
Thangboche – Pheriche and Lobuche. Mt.
Pumori is 7145m. high and ascent starts
at 5,300m; which is beside a beautiful
small lake from here you can get a
beautiful sight of Mt. Everest and
Kalapthar at 5545m.
Camp 1: After a 3 hrs walk you will
reach camp 1 or advanced base camp
5700m. After that you will have to walk
the distance of 500m with the Elevation
of a 40 to 65 degrees slopes. Pumori has
many rock and mixed climb traverse,
steep and expose to wind narrow ridges,
some Ice walls, one tunnel climb. Some
times you may need fixed ropes also.
Camp 2 starts at 6200m. it is located on
a narrow ridge; So there is no fear of
avalanches. The next 400m. Is an ice
climb with 35-65 degrees, more 5m. is
the Ice walls, many crevasses, and the
bigger avalanche danger from big seracs
hanging from the shoulder of 6500m.
Now camp 3, it is too windy. At the
height of 6850m, from where you can see
Tibetan plateau; and you need rope here
because of many crevasses and ice walls
way to summit. After that there are two
climbing ranges; one from Tibet side and
other is from Nepal side. Between these
2 sides the Nepal side is easier to
Pumori Summit. After this walk to Summit
is easy to reach on the summit of Pumori
7145m.
Normal route: This is the easier route
to climb this peak and most of the
expedition coteries climbed this peak so
far have used this route. As you know
Pumori is not easy as like the other
mountains, there are difficult technical
parts in this route as well. We suggest
you, you should take climbing Sherpa and
who will guide you to reach the Summit .
You need to have at least 3 camps after
base camp to reach the summit. The base
camp is just above Gorek Shep at the
altitude of 5300m. After base camp, you
can set up first camp at the altitude of
5,650m. around the phase of Mt. Pumori .
You should set second camp at the ridge
after the phase at the altitude of
6,000m. The most technical part for this
peak is around camp 1 and 2. You should
set camp 3 at the altitude of
6,480m,around the corner after the
ridge.
You can ascend summit from the camp 3 to
the top of Pumori. Most of the climbers
use this route for the expedition to Mt.
Pumori in every year.
South - West ridge: Some very few
climbers tried this route, but it is
very difficult routes. This route
follows directly from the top of
Kalapathar and goes straight over the
ridge nearly by 75 Degree. As this route
has lots of technical difficulties. We
suggest you to use the normal route for
the Mt. Pumori and you & your group will
comfortably reach the Top. For the more
information please check Himalayan
Journal 1996 or American Alpine Journal
1997. This book written by Climber who
have been scaled the Mt. Pumori . |
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