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Cho Oyu is 8201m. High and was first climbed by Austrian 1954. The Indian and German team also did ascent to this peak 1n 1958 and 1964 respectively. Till to date many expedition teams Reached on it summit. This year 2004 has been regarded as the Golden jubilee of this Cho Oyu Mountain, so Nepal mountaineering Association has been planning to celebrate its Golden jubilee with grand fanfare and Jubilantly; that’s why the valued expedition teams are mostly solicited to climb this peak on this happy occasion resplendently.
Most of the Cho Oyu expedition teams climb the peak via Tibet side due the easy technique through the Tibet. Since 1998, our company ” Monterosa Treks and Expedition” is also conducting the expedition via this same Tibet side. Our company is also initiating Golden Jubilee Cho Oyu Expedition 2004. So the interested climbers are heartily well come to join with us at this happy climbing occasion.
MEETING & CLIMBING INFORMATION:
Cho Oyu 8201m. Expedition begins you well coming from Kathmandu where you meet the staff of Monterosa Treks & Expedition in the airport and Trasfer you to Hotel. Next day, is the start of the introduction of Expedition crews and the joining of the team members. Since then we make your Tibet visa and other necessary document for the Cho Oyu Expedition.
3 day after we drive you up the Friendship bridge through Arnico Highway Nepal-Tibet border; where the Chinese liaison officer and Chinese transport meet us there. The expedition gears go by truck while we travel by Land cruiser 4wd. We take time to acclimatize with one night at Zhangmu (2300m) and two nights at Nylam (3750m), which also gives us the chance to trek up high hills for acclimatization.
Next day we drive to Tingri (4350m) where we spend a further two nights acclimatizing. From here we leave the main rough road with jerking & bouncing grassy plain leading up to the Nangpa La.
We set up base camp at a place called Chinese Base Camp 5,000m. and stay two nights or more, depending on how everyone feels and we make schedules of the yaks. Base camp is a temporary but comfortable affair with Nepali cook and dining tent. Now the walking begins with the two-day walk to advanced base camp (ABC).
ABC is in the heart of the Himalayan at 5700m, surrounded by celestial peaks and close by is the high pass, an old but still used yak track trading route between Nepal and Tibet.
ABC is the route of superb scene of the Cho Oyu. This is the main base camp and we plan to stay here for the longer duration to look the favorable situation for the expedition. Every person gets their own tent there.
Our Service will be full board up to ABC and after that the climbers should manage all services by themselves.
From ABC it is several hours of tough walking on a vague path over moraine-covered glacier to the start of the mountaineering properly
After a short, steep climb is the Lake Camp (Camp 1 – 6050m.) where you have a tent to store the gear.
Camp 1 is two hours far through the steep screen slope, which improves you the higher climb.
Camp 1 is either perched more or less on the ridge at 6400m. And the real mountaineering starts from here. The ridge is now soft and so easy enough climbing, then it broadens out and we climb successive huge steps, several of which probably require fixing a rope up. We should fix a new rope in co-operation with other expeditions on the mountain. Normally one rope is used for ascent and another for descent. Although the route is crevassed, normally these create no problems.
Camp 2 is on the edge of a large plateau at 7125m although you will carefully assess where to put the rope. Depending on conditions and fitness you may attempt the summit from here, or you may establish a light Camp 3 across the plateau and up on a minor ridge at 7550m. Above Camp 3 are two rocky steps where you fix another set of ropes prior to our summit ascent.
Summit day means a very early start in the morning. Above the rock bands the slopes are still reasonably steep and you may take a line to fix there, depending on conditions. However once on the crest of this ridge the terrain is straightforward although it is a long haul to the summit plateau.
The panorama is breathtakingly magnificent, including Everest 8848m, Lhotse 8501m, Nuptse 7855m, Chamlang 7319m, Ama Dablam 6856m and other peaks of the Everest region to the east and south. To the west are the Melungtse and Gauri Sankar massifs and to the north is pure Tibet. It is normal to descend to Camp 2 and from here and continue down.